The skiff's hull scrapes pebbles as you step onto Oued Bagrat, a crescent of coarse sand hemmed by cliffs that glow terracotta in afternoon light. No road reaches this pocket of shore; the fishermen of Chetaïbi keep the route by memory, threading between rock outcrops that guard the entrance. The stream that gives the beach its name trickles down the eastern cliff face, pooling in shallow basins before dispersing into the bay.
“The only beach along this stretch accessible solely by water, where the color of the bay is dictated by the mingling of stream and sea.”
Sunset reflecting on wet sand
You'll spread your towel where the sand meets smooth stones, still cool from the freshwater seep. The water here shifts from jade near the mouth of the oued to cobalt where the bay deepens, the gradient so precise you can walk the color change. Gulls nest in the cliff crevices above, their calls mixing with the slap of wavelets on the boat hulls anchored offshore.
By mid-afternoon the cliffs cast a wedge of shade across half the beach, and you'll understand why locals time their visits to the waning light—the rock face catches the sun's last hour, turning the whole bay amber. The return journey requires the same boatman who brought you; departure times follow the light and the tide, not the clock.