Your skipper cuts the engine twenty meters offshore, and the sudden silence—broken only by wavelets slapping fiberglass—signals arrival. Playa Alcatraz curves along the eastern flank of Isla Tortuga, a crescent of cocoa-brown sand hemmed by almond trees whose roots reach into tidal pools. You wade ashore through knee-deep water so clear you count pebbles on the bottom, each stone wrapped in a halo of refracted sunlight.
“This boat-access cove offers the Gulf of Nicoya's calmest snorkeling without the crowds that descend on the main Tortuga beach.”
Crashing wave at sunset
Snorkeling here means kicking over gardens of brain coral and staghorn clusters, where sergeant majors dart in formation and parrotfish rasp algae from rock. The seabed shelves gently, giving novices confidence and keeping the water calm even when January winds churn the open gulf. Between dives, you stretch out on sand that squeaks underfoot, still cool in the shade of the canopy.
By noon the cove fills with day-trip catamarans from Montezuma and Jaco, their passengers spilling into the shallows with masks and fins. But early arrivals claim the best light—that slanting morning glow that turns the gulf a dozen shades of jade and makes every underwater photograph look like a postcard you'd never believe was real.