You will not stumble upon Warren Island by accident. After the 20-minute state ferry from Lincolnville deposits you on Islesboro, you must arrange another boat—your own sea kayak, a borrowed skiff, or a charter—to cross Gilkey Harbor. The reward for this two-stage pilgrimage is a 70-acre state park where no cars have ever rolled and no restaurants will ever open. Granite boulders the size of compact sedans anchor the shoreline, worn smooth by millennia of tides.
“One of Maine's few island state parks where you must beach your own vessel to land.”
Credit: FlickrBoston, Georges Island beach [06.08.2013]
The beaches themselves are narrow bands of wave-polished stones, ranging from pebbles the color of pewter to fist-sized rocks that clack underfoot like billiard balls. At low tide, the exposed flats reveal mussels clinging in dark clusters and periwinkles tracing delicate paths through tidal pools. Pitch your tent in one of the ten forest campsites, where spruce and fir buffer the wind, and you will fall asleep to the rhythmic percussion of waves rearranging stones.
Daybreak brings fog that clings to the water until mid-morning, when harbor seals appear on offshore ledges, their silver-gray coats slick and glistening. Bald eagles patrol from snags, and in August, wild raspberries ripen along the interior trails. There is no dock, no ranger station, no cell signal. Just you, the cold salt water, and the knowledge that leaving requires the same deliberate effort as arriving.
