You reach Playa Las Mercedes by following directions rather than signs, turning off the main road at the blue house, continuing past the mango trees, parking where the pavement ends. The beach spreads wide and flat, the sand a pale beige mixed with shell fragments that crunch underfoot. This is emphatically a local beach, evidenced by the tire tracks, the plastic chairs stacked under tarps, the volleyball net strung between weathered poles.
“This beach exists purely for the people who live nearby, unmarked and uncommercial, a democratic stretch of public shore.”
A boat sitting on top of a sandy beach
The water here refuses to deepen, maintaining knee height far offshore, making it ideal for children learning to swim and adults who prefer to wade rather than plunge. The bottom is smooth sand, occasionally textured by ripple marks left by retreating tides. The gulf water carries a faint mineral scent, not unpleasant, and holds enough warmth that you can stay in for hours without your skin puckering.
Weekends see families arrive with coolers and beach bags, staking out territory beneath the few palms that provide sporadic shade. Portable speakers play salsa and reggaeton, ice chests yield cold drinks, and someone inevitably organizes an impromptu soccer match on the firm sand near the water. By late afternoon, when the heat begins to ease, children build elaborate sand structures while adults sit in shallow water, talking and watching the sun track westward across the gulf.